TLDR:

What your exfoliator is made of matters more than what it’s packaged in—it's key to choose products made with locally sourced agricultural byproducts that repurpose waste and reduce resource use. Of course, packaging still matters. Go for recyclable glass, find brands with return/refill programs, or try packaging-free scrub bars. Whether you are ingredient conscious, zero-waste focused, or a marine life enthusiast, there’s an option to match your vibe and values. The first decision you have to make is whether to go the physical or chemical route: Face peels and exfoliators can be made from a wide variety of ingredients, but they can be broadly categorized as either physical or chemical exfoliants. Let’s peel back the layers, shall we?

‍1) Physical Exfoliants and Scrubs:

Physical exfoliants work through friction, using micro-particles to scrub and remove dead skin cells on the outermost layers of the skin. These are the type of facial scrubs with those small, gritty particles of – something or other. 

‍Ingredients

‍Synthetic Polyethylene

We’re going to start this one off with some good news – when the U.S. Congress passed The Microbead-Free Waters Act of 2015 prohibiting the manufacturing, packaging, and distribution of rinse-off cosmetics containing plastic microbeads, there was a big shift away from synthetic polyethylene (PE) in exfoliants and facial scrubs. This is a big deal because, historically, the most commonly used synthetic exfoliant was those pesky plastic polyethylene (PE) beads less than 5 millimeters in size. Yup, those are quintessential microplastics. Fortunately, now only ~2% of total ocean microplastics can be attributed to personal care products. Fist bump, Congress. Even though synthetic PE isn’t as common, it’s still something to watch out for, for a number of reasons...

On the climate side of things, the production of PE is energy intensive and relies on the extraction of fossil fuels, leading to pretty significant associated greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. The process can also release harmful chemicals into the air causing both occupational and environmental health hazards. 

On the water side of things, those microbeads can make their way down the drain and into the water system. Due to their ‘micro’ size, these beads often bypass wastewater treatment systems in plants and end up accumulating in aquatic environment. PE is not only resistant to decomposition, but marine animals often mistake microplastics for food causing accumulation in animal tissue and further consumption as it travels higher up the trophic chain. The presence of microplastics in our waterways is still a major issue, even though microplastics from personal care products are no longer a significant driver. As a result of this shift away from plastic though, there are now quite a few natural exfoliation alternatives on the market.

‍Bio-Based Byproducts

Natural doesn’t always mean sustainable, so it helps to know where ingredients come from and how they’re processed.

‍Spent Coffee Grounds (SCG): Since only 30% of the mass of coffee beans is transformed into coffee, SCGs are a commonly repurposed food byproduct that’s used in scrubs. Also, because coffee is a global industry, SCGs can be locally sourced and require minimal processing – you just have to dry and sieve it to achieve the smaller size needed for a scrub. Another added benefit of SCG? Creating new markets for coffee by-products (which account for 8 million tons of residual waste annually, eek!) can help diversify income streams for farmers relying on a single, seasonal coffee bean crop.

‍Nuts and Fruit Kernels: When apricot pits and walnut shells are left over from food production, the resulting byproduct can be easily repurposed and ground up for use in scrubs. That said, when these common alternatives become too popular, demand from non-food industries (particularly beauty and personal care) can lead to overharvesting, which also affects the communities that are reliant on these crops for food, medicine, and income. If your product of choice uses these (or similar) ingredients – often described as food scraps or byproducts – make sure the brand also explains its sourcing practices or has a sustainability-related certification. 

‍Jojoba beads: Oils produced by the jojoba plant can be processed into biodegradable wax beads. The jojoba plant is drought-resistant and requires significantly less water than some of its plant peers. 

‍Bamboo Powder: Did you know that bamboo stores four times more carbon dioxide and releases 35% more oxygen than the average tree? A serious climate-change fighter! It’s important to note though, that most bamboo powder is produced in the Asia Pacific region. While U.S production of bamboo powder is growing, we remain one of the largest importers of bamboo products – meaning there’s a hefty (carbon) price tag associated with the transportation of these products from around the world. 

‍Carrier and Base Ingredients

In physical exfoliants, any of the above gritty particles would be blended with a base ingredient to create a spreadable paste that adheres to the skin.

‍The Better Choices:

• Oils (and butter), such as sunflower, jojoba, coconut, olive, and shea butter, have low to moderate land use impacts, biodiversity impacts, and chemical inputs when compared to palm oil.
• The aloe vera plant requires minimal water to grow, supports soil stabilization, and helps purify the air – and our skin. The healing properties of aloe help reduce inflammation and kill bacteria. 
• Vegetable glycerin (also known as glycerol) is derived from the oils of coconut, soy, or palm. Synthetic glycerin (propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol (PEG)) is created with man-made chemicals to mimic the same skin-hydrating effects as its vegetable counterpart. While vegetable glycerin from palm is not the same as palm oil, default to coconut and soy if you can, and read on for some palm oil derivative complications.

The Not So Good Choices:

• Palm oil derivates contribute to deforestation, biodiversity loss, and have been linked to labor rights abuses. On ingredient labels, look out for derivates like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), glyceryl stearate, and cetyl alcohol. Pro-tip: if your product of choice contains palm oil, look to see if it’s been certified by the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO).
• Avoid parabens, phthalates, and sulfates that can be harsh on both skin and marine life. Brands boasting the absence of these ingredients in their formulas usually include “free from” on product labels, so it should be easy to spot.
• When in doubt, going fragrance free helps avoid dozens of pesky, unlisted chemicals and is one way to reduce exposure to phthalates and parabens. 

2) Chemical Facial Peels

Unlike physical exfoliants, chemical peels use acids or enzymes to cause controlled damage and then regenerate the skin. There are two main categories of acids – Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), which are water-soluble and work primarily on the skin’s surface, and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), which are oil-soluble and go deeper into pores. Let’s do a quick health check before we peel back the layers of common ingredients.

Health Check: Unlike other cosmetic ingredients, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has done studies on potential adverse long-term, skin cancer-related effects resulting from the use of one of the most common ingredients in AHA products, glycolic acid. They studied the impact of UV light exposure and did not find glycolic acid to be a photocarcinogen. Phew. That said, both AHA and BHA can make us more susceptible to the damaging impacts of the sun, so the studies say it’s important to use sun protection when using facial peels. There are some important exceptions to be aware of, though. For our pregnant friends, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or retinol derivatives (Vitamin A, or ingredients with prefix “refin”) are not safe in higher quantities. 

Environment Check: The impact AHAs varies depending on the production method – more specifically, it depends on whether it was derived from fermenting renewable feedstocks or through a chemically synthesized in a lab – a process that is generally associated with environmental pollution and high energy use. The tricky thing is that we can’t necessarily tell one way or another from a product label, so it’s a total win if a brand uses third-party assurance that the product was developed using a fermentation method or in a facility using renewable energy. This is where transparent company reporting on supply chain practices goes a long way – and why product labeling can't always tell us the whole story about sustainability.

Ingredients

Glycolic Acid (in AHA): When not chemically synthesized (which unfortunately isn’t super common), glycolic acid comes from fermenting the juice of sugar cane stalks – a bio-based but incredibly thirsty crop. Current research is exploring how biomass-derived glycolic acid can support the creation of other biodegradable polymers that could serve as alternatives to traditional plastics. More to come as innovation continues!

Lactic Acid (in AHA): Producing lactic acid through fermentation provides opportunities to use renewable agricultural and industrial waste like grass, straw, sugar beet pulp, coconut pulp, and more.

Citric Acid (in AHA): Found in various citrus fruits like lemon, limes, oranges, grapefruits, pineapples, and even some vegetables, citric acid is pretty ubiquitous. The majority of citric acid is also produced through fermentation (yay!) and is recognized as safe by the FDA.

Salicylic Acid (in BHA): This is the most common BHA found in skincare. Even though it is naturally derived from the bark of white willow and wintergreen leaves, because of its high demand in products, it’s primarily produced through chemical synthesis. 

Peels & Exfoliator Packaging Considerations

Many scrubs come in single-use plastic containers that contribute to landfill waste and pollution. Even though glass is quite carbon intensive, it’s able to be recycled (though verdict is still out on whether it is actually recycled...) time and time again. If you can, choose glass over plastic, and in either case, opt for brands that use recycled content to reduce the need for virgin materials. More brands (check out our recs) are beginning to offer a return or refill system, which could be handy if you plan on being a repeat customer. If you really are looking to minimize your footprint, alternatives like solid scrub bars are designed to stay compact and intact without the use of packaging help significantly reduce waste. 

Certifications

Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO)

RSPO is a globally recognized standard for the sustainable production and use of palm oil. While it’s not a silver bullet, it helps assure that certain sustainability requirements have been met.

‍Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)

FSC certification ensures that timber and other forest products are sourced from responsibly managed forests that meet high environmental and social standards.

‍MADE SAFE

MADE SAFE is the only human health and ecosystem-focused product certification program. Products with its seal have been screened to ensure restricted substances have been avoided or constrained.

‍Fun Fact 

The use of exfoliants can be traced back to ancient Egypt when minerals and alabaster particles were used as physical exfoliants.